March 27, 2013

Trip 46: Tallinn, Estonia

Trip date: August 15 -16, 2012

Tallinn is the capital of Estonia, the northern most of the Baltic States and is, of course, west of the Baltic Sea. The population is less than 500,000 which includes one fantastic CS host.

All in attendance: Kristen and Eric

There is a deal in Germany where you can take unlimited trains all day for super cheap and combine multiple people into this one ticket. The catch? You have to sacrifice 12 hours of your life to slow regional trains and monotony. Cue: not enough bretzel and schorle. We took a Ryanair flight out of Dusseldorf Weeze - a German airport literally located in nowheres-ville, Germany where the population of rabbits surpassed the population of Germans. We stayed at the airport's own hostel (an old army barrack converted to overpriced dorms) since our flight left early and sleeping at the airport was verboten. There was no food available for purchase around that night so we ate television shows with our eyeballs instead.

We made our way through the Tallinn on transit and by foot to our couchsurfing host's place. He had a lovely bed set up in his wintergarden and we slept among some suspicious plants and woke up with the sun.Our host loved tropical climates and lives most of the year away from Estonia but he returns in the summer because of his love for his home and opens his house to rift-rafts like us.


After scarfing down a huge container of kraut salad, Eric and I set off into the Old Town to have a peak around. Tallinn  has a "Freedom Square" (or Vabaduse väljak in Estonian) with a large glass "Cross of Freedom" towering over it to commemorate the battle of independence between Estonia and the USSR.


We saw a large market by the town hall square where doilies and amber were in high supply. We wandered around for a good while among the whimsical cobblestone streets and castle city walls. We also happened upon some interesting non-permanent art installations on display as we headed up Toompea Hill.





On top of Toompea Hill, we got a panoramic view of the oldtown and stopped by the Alexandre Nevsky Catherdral and the parliament (Riigikogu) which was across the street. For dinner that night, we ate this this sushi restaurent where loud anime and J-pop music videos played on a big screen, the waitresses dressed in cosplay and pink lighting was deemed superior to white lighting. That night, we watched the worst movie in the history of Hollywood while chatting over-top of it it with our CS host.


The next morning, we went to the St Mary's Cathedral (Toomkirik). We ate at Kompressor for lunch - a place which served large crazy crepes. Here, I learned that even though I believe blue cheese to be an acquired flavour, it is certainly not suppose to be acquired in a larger than life crepe. Cue: inedible crepe that Eric could eat like a pro. We also took time to enjoy some fancy old town coffee. We explored out to the docks near Tallinn Bay where we contemplated the non-aesthetic of old communist style buildings. We continued on to Kadrioru park and there we saw the pink Kadriorg Palace, lovely relaxing Estonians, and a beautiful beach. We walked home through the Rottermann Quarter and hung out with our CS host that night.



That night, our CS host gave me a bit of his open-face sandwich which was composed of dark rye bread, margarine and a tasty-salty-cured fish. When I enjoyed my bite, he proceeded to give me 5 more sandwiches until I felt like fish would ooze out of my pores. I later learned this was Estonia's version of rotting-fish that I keep hearing about.

We went on 2 day trips in the next two days but used our CS host's home as our home base. How nice of him to let us extend our stay! He wouldn't even accept a meal of delicious cooked eggs by yours truly.

Things I learnt:
  • "Pood & Tuba" = "Shop and Workroom"
  • Estonia, although the capital city, has a nice 'small town' atmosphere
  • More malls here than I've seen in a while

Trip 45: Dresden (Again), Germany

Trip date:August 12-13, 2012

Off the Dresden (again!) to meet up with Eric before our big Baltic trip and a chance to show Tom the sites of a city I have come to love.

All in attendance: Kristen and Tom


Highlights include:
  • Drinks at Wohnzimmer (my favourite bar which looks like it's furnish by your average fancy grandmother)
  • German spreads
  • Currywurst all over old town with Tom
  • Being a tour guide
  • Wandering around all the cute bars and restaurants that Calgary will never have
  • Eating at TU Dresden where the taxes of the German people paid for my schnitzel

March 15, 2013

Trip 44: Český Krumlov, Czech Republic

Trip date: August 8 - 10, 2012

A small town which, like Prague, is also located along the Vltava River and a beautiful (but overcrowded) place to relax against a beautiful old town backdrop.

All in attendance: Tom and Kristen

All aboard a cheap Student Agency bus towards the south of the Czech Republic into a cute town called Český Krumlov. What do people do here? Join the hoards of tourists in relaxing and eating of course!


A short downhill walk from the bus stop leads us into the town. A quick glance at a public map is all you really need to learn the outline of the small place. The first order of business once checking into our hostel - a much needed load of laundry.

For dinner that night, we went to an Italian restaurent by the river. We had a dinner guest with us that night too; very cute Austrian 3-year old girl figured it was more exciting to sit with Tom and I than her parents.



After dinner, we walked through the cobblestone roads of the old town and tried a lot of strong fruit flavoured spirits. Feeling boozy and snoozy from our previous night out, we slept early in our comfy hostel room.

The next morning we got more Trdelník and set out to explore the Castle which overlooks the town. Sad brown bears were in the moat. Cue: overzealous tourists throwing food down to the bears. We opted to not taking a tour and instead to just enjoy the views of the city from the castle. We picnicked in the seriously under-visited garden and spent the early afternoon relaxing in the dreamy shade. Cue: being stung by a random poisonous plant and ruining the tranquility.


That night, Tom and I made a home made chilli, hung out with people from our hostel (mostly Oz, as usual) and went to the saddest dance club ever (population: only us).


The next morning, we dined on mushy fruit and yogurt and went to a Museum with a lot of works by Gerald Scharfe - notably the artist behind Pink Floyd's The Wall and Disney's Hercules. He also does a lot of political caricatures. Cue: watching the entire Hercules movie in the museum and a relaxing day.

If you're going to relax and do nothing - make sure you have a beautiful setting to do it in.


Things to do next time in the Czech Republic:

We had such a great time in the Czech Republic -  we can't wait to go back!

Trip 43: Kutná Hora, Czech Republic

Trip date: August 7, 2012

Anyone who spends enough time wasting their life on the internet, researching all the odd and beautiful sights you can find in the world has definitely ran into some obscure website that talks about that crazy human bone church.That crazy church with the skull chandelier is called Sedlec Ossuary and is just an hour by train from Prague which makes for a great bony-creepy day trip.

All in attendance: Kristen and Tom

Let's get out of the posh city and into the scary countryside. Tom and I took the train from the main station to Kutná Hora hlavní nádraží‎ (one of Kutná Hora's train stations). A less than $10 train ride where we feasted on Germans spreads and Milka as Czech landscape zipped by.

The Sedlec Ossuary is a few blocks from the train station. Navigation is a breeze, especially when you follow a New Europe tour. Bonus spy points go to Tom and I who pretended to be part of the tour group long enough to gain free access to the small Roman Catholic Chapel.



Are you all excited for a gruesome history lesson full of sadistic, twisted and disgusting behaviour? If so, I am going to greatly disappoint you. Between the black plague and general population death over the centuries, the church began exhuming skeletons and stacking their bones in the chapel. In 1870, a woodcarver named František Rint decided it would be a more pleasent idea to store the bones in a more aesthetically pleasing way. The result: bone chandeliers, bone coat of arms, bone decoration.



Don't think that this chapel is a giant endless maze of bones. It's probably equal to the size of your laundry room. However, the longer you're there, the more eerie it becomes - especially when you count the skulls and realize how many 'people' are in that room with you.

After a spooky time, Tom and I winded down at a nearby pub until the next train back to Prague.

Things I liked:
  • I'm not sure if people 'like' places like this, but it was a good visit. 

March 14, 2013

Trip 42: Prague (Praha), Czech Republic (Česká Republika)

Trip date: August 4 - August 8; August 10 - 12, 2012

Prague is the capital city of the Czech Republic and is located along the Vltava river. It has all the architectural beauty you could hope for and almost none of the horrible tourist pricing that usually follows.

All in attendance: Kristen and her best friend Tom

Any hope of sleeping on the bus from Vienna to Prague was eliminated as soon I discovered that the Student Agency bus had a huge library of English Hollywood films. Instead it was time for a Lord of the Rings marathon as we wizzed pass the numerous dodgy strip clubs that dotted Czech side near the Austrian/Czech border.


We got off the bus, navigated in true clueless tourist fashion to the metro got out our first Czech koruna out from the ATM. A constant traveling bummer is the lengths you need to go to to make small change from newly withdrawled money. Off we went to our first accomodations (ATS Hostel Arnosta, 17 euros each per night).

We ended up having the entire 6 person room to ourselves! Tom bewitched 2 Polish guys to sticking with us and finding a good club to party at. We simultaneously could not decided if the Polish guys stuck around because they were in to me or in to him (or perhaps in to us both?). We walked around Prague that night (passing many sites that night, including the Charles Bridge) and ended up at Roxy Club.




The next day, we tried to find tickets to a ballet or an opera but to no avail. Instead, we wandered around all the touristy sites around the Old Town Square. We even had overpriced drinks near the famous Prague Astronomical Clock. Highlights include good views of the Church of Our Lady before Týn and hoards of tourists.


We popped into every interesting looking art store and tourists shop since I wanted to find Eric a night birthday present. We wandered through the maze of old town and the small alleys in between beautiful buildings. This brought us halfway across Vltava river and onto Střelecký ostrov (literally, Shooter's Island) that had a beautiful park that became official Prague Nap Place to us.

The buildings came increasingly nicer and nicer as we ventured into the New Town towards a mandatory stop in from of the Tančící dům (The dancing house/ Fred and Ginger). We had a lovely meal at a vegetarian restaurant called lehka hlava where we also shared a refreshing ginger tea.



The night finished off with some snoozing, some resting, some wine and a pizza movie night in our hostel room.


The next morning (after spazzing out because I accidentally left my wallet at the pizza place and luckily finding it), we sent off across the river in a different area and took the day exploring Prague's castle. Highlights include the castle itself, St. Vitus Cathedral and eating Trdelník (a sugary pastry).


We escaped an afternoon shower by lounging in a Irish pub while watching what we could of the London Olympics. The Czech Republic broadcasts seemed to only feature athletes from eastern Europe and Russia so Canadian presence in the summer games felt even lesser than usual.

Highlights from later that afternoon included an interactive tour at the KGB museum where the museum curator insisted on ridiculous photos, happening upon a children's dance show, the John Lennon wall and "art" along the river.




The next day, we had to check out of our shady, dirty hostel because they became fully booked and relocated to a much nicer, fancier one (Extol Inn, 18 euros each a night). We took a train and spent the day in Kutná Hora (next entry).

At night, we marathoned episodes of American Horror Story and checked out this club we had heard about called "Cross Club" and ended up staying until it closed. We met an American friend named Johnny that night and had too much fun for a Tuesday night.


To be honest, our second return to Prague was just to visit Cross Club and hang out with Johnny again. Being sketchy at McDonald's in the early morning hours is a global tradition that transcends any culture.

Things I liked:
  • Prague itself! This is one of my favourite cities to be in, even just for the atmosphere!
  • Cross club !!!
  • How ridiculous the KJB museum was
  • How a restaurant stayed open longer for us just so we could watch the Canadian Men's Relay
Things to do next time:
  • Cross club !!!
  • EAT MORE
  • Go to a ballet or opera