April 19, 2013

Trip 50: Rīga, Latvija (Riga, Latvia)

Trip date: Wednesday August 22 - Thursday August 23, 2012

Riga is the capital of Latvia and the most populated city in the Baltic states. It lies on the Gulf of Riga and the Daugava River flows through it. Along with a picturesque old town, Riga is bursting full of beautiful romantic Art Nouveau buildings.

All in attendance: Eric and Kristen

After getting off the bus from Estonia, we walked the maze of streets and malls to our apartment flat we got through Cheap & Good Apartments.There, we met a zealous host who insisted on filling us full of of Riga Balsam liquor in our tea/coffee. He even knocked on all the other apartment doors to get everyone out to drink with us.



A quick nap and we set off in the post-rainy old town. We ate dinner at a garlic restaurant named Kiploku Krogs where I probably ate the equivalent of 3 whole garlic heads to myself.  I was not exciting enough to try garlic beer or garlic coffee. Here, Eric got a soup in his first ever bread bowl - a concept that I have grown to become desensitize to but found out that this is not necessarily the case if you're German.



Nearby to the restaurant are the Three Brothers - Riga's oldest residential homes which were whimsical and beautiful in soft pastel colours. However, due to narrow streets, all the photos I got of them were awkward but that's how it is sometimes.

We walked around the old town. We saw the Riga Cathedral and all its scaffold glory and walked along cobblestone walking streets until dark. Eric had an early night and I went to an internet cafe to look for Couchsurfing hosts for or upcoming next few stops. At the grocery store that night, I investigated these curiously packaged sweets that are found in dozens of flavours in the dairy section in all the grocery stores we encountered in the Baltic States. They almost look like ice cream treats but unfrozen. The result? Something that taste like the liquid in a cottage cheese container. Probably an acquired taste.




The next morning was much more sunny. We saw a great Russian Style Church and walked through the park near theFreedom Monument (honoring soldiers who died in the Latvian War of Independence). We ate a cozy buffet-style restaurant for lunch where the majority of ordering was done through pointing and gestures. I ended up getting a plate full of buckwheat and Eric told me a bunch of USSR-buckwheat related jokes that made absolutely no sense to me.


We walked along the Alberta iela (Alberta Street) where there was a high concentration of ornate Art Nouveau buildings. Here in Riga was the first time I saw buildings like this. Ominous faces and intricate detail ensues. The architecture in Riga is stunning.





We escaped a torrential downpour of rain in a cozy tea shop where we played chess and got a Latvian take on a traditional tea ceremony. After the rain, we took a walk along the water and stopped to have a last look at the House of the Blackheads.




One last stroll through the old town and we picked up the most delightful looking giant bread loaf to take with us on our next stop - a national park.

The owner of the apartment rentals helped up get a reservation in our next stop with the owner of a guesthouse who didn't speak English. He called everyone out of their rooms for a final time to all drink Balsam together and see us off.

We hopped on a train towards Sigulda, located in Gauja National Park.



Things to do next time:
  • See Riga Central Market
Things I learned:
  • Latvian money = Latvian Lats
     

    April 18, 2013

    Trip 49: Soomaa National Park, Estonia

    Trip date: Sunday August 19 - Tuesday August 21, 2012

    Eric and I had gone canoeing while we were in Copenhagen and we found it to be such a pleasant activity to do together. So, during our Baltic trip, we decided to take a 3 day canoe/camping trip through Estonia's Soomaa National Park.

    All in attendance: Kristen and Eric

    For 60 euros, we booked a 3 day/2 night self guided canoe trip through the national park. On Sunday morning we took a train from the very minimal and dated looking main station towards the Estonian town of Pärnu and got off at Tori. I spent the whole ride sleeping across the bench and missed the part where the whole train stopped just so a group of people could go to the bathroom behind a few bushes. Eric found this so incredulous that he couldn't stop talking about it.

    In Tori, we waited for to be picked up by Aivar. He gave us three waterproof bins to put our stuff into and we separated our items into categories of food, clothes and equipment. The bins made it look like we were transporting illegal chemicals or biological warfare nuclear weapons. He promised us that the rest of our stuff can be returned once we finish the 70km canoe trip. Another young couple - A German couple, naturally - was also doing the same three day trip so it was nice to have company with us each night.



    The day started out with a downpour of rain where buckets of the wet stuff kept falling from the skies and on our spirits. We waited out a bit of the rain from a spider-webby gazebo but when it looked like there was going to be no change in the weather in a while, Eric and I set off for a wet adventure. Cue: jealousy of Eric's rain pants.

    I was eaten alive by horseflies and we had to do a couple of portages across places where people had built low bridges over the Halliste river. Fallen trees and piles of logs provided challenging hurdles that could be overcome only by the correct amount of awkward paddling and upper body strength. Granola bars and chocolate definitely taste better when your clothes are soaked through and the path is difficult.


    The first night was a camp out near an old barn in the Tipu village. There was a stork nest perched high up on some power line towers. Birds had taken over the barn and could be seen flowing in and out. Eric and I feasted on couscous and a small bottle of sweet Vana Tallinn. After a horrible moment of all-the-wood-is-wet experience, we even got a cozy fire going. Wet shoes warmed up by the fire and we slept through the fist night easily.

    Waking up a bit sore but to sunny weather, we set off for day two. Cue: many relaxing waterside snacks and beautiful electric blue dragon flies. Horseflies population seemed lower on this day, maybe the 30 or so squashed dead ones in the canoe warned them off.




    We stayed in Riisa the next night near a guesthouse. We were able to have a hot shower here and warm up by a nice fire. Eric won the boyfriend of the year award when he got on a bike after rowing all day just so he could go into the nearest town and buy us a bottle of wine.



    Eric and I even walked to a nearby bog after dinner and got a great view on top of a large watchtower. On the way there, there were all these marks and indicators on the trees, building and bridges to show you how ridiculously high the water line floods to on some of the wettest days all year.

    Cue: smelling lovely like a campfire and nearly freezing through the night.


    The next day we paddled on and said our good byes to the mirror-clear river and cute water-side houses. At the end point, we met a guy who took our canoes and gave us back the rest of our backpacks. He told us crazy stories about working with biologists who were tranquillizing and studying wolves in the park.

    Then we hopped on a bus to Pärnu -  an Estonian beach town. I felt like a big bruise by this night and couldn't leave the guesthouse to explore. Eric and I feasted on hard-boiled eggs the next morning and we took off on a bus the next day towards Latvia.


    Things I learned:
    • "The middle of nowhere" in Europe is still always very close to something manmade or the highway
    • Coucous for all your camping diet needs
    • Rainpants are something to be jealous of
    • Vana Tallinn is deliciously sweet
    • Millions of horsefly bites on your legs is not a good look
    • 3-in-one instant coffee is a god send
    • Highland cattle are used to cut grass
    Things to do next time:
    • Explore Estonia's Islands
    • Go on a guided mushrooming tour 
    • More canoe/kayak trips !

    April 10, 2013

    Trip 48: Lahemaa National Park, Estonia

    Trip date: Saturday August 18, 2012

    Lahemaa National Park (Lahemaa Rahvuspark) is under 100 km east of Tallinn. It is Estonia's first and largest national park. This is my first experience with dreamy hikes through a swampy-boggy place on top of wooden planks which secure your footing.

    All in attendance: Kristen and Eric

    Eric and I rented a car for a single day from Tallinn and took it to Lahemaa national park. We woke up early the day before to go to Helsinki and arrived back to our CS host's home quite late and continued this no-sleep trend to ensure we got the most we could out of all the hiking we could do in that area.

    Hiking through bogs is surprisingly fun because you must walk on top of wooden planks so you don't sink into hidden swamp holes. Sometimes you can see old sunken wooden planks underneath the pathways. I thought we would be attacked by hoards of bugs and mosquito when we went but we survived the hike relatively unbitten and I learn the importance of not being bog-ignorant.





    The first and grandest stop was the short hike through the rainbow coloured Viru Raba (raba=bog in Estonian). There's a watchtower where you can get a breath taking birds-eye view of the landscape. There is no way I could describe how beautiful the colours were or how stunning the blue pools are; so instead, I just dumped a bunch of shots.


    After the hike, we stumbled upon a creepy old abandon mansion. Perfect place to eat blueberry-white-chocolate-bars and contemplate ghosts. We then took the car to Käsmu, a coastal town located in the park.  Walking along a hiking path along the coast, we found that the water at our time of visit was shallow enough to walk across to a nearby island. We took our shoes off and walked across all the pointy stones towards the island.




    On that island we saw nesting baby swans and a half decomposing dead animal (aka the ying and yang of life). We walked through trees and sand and found a nice place on some big rocks to sit and enjoy the shade. What better way to enjoy nature's beauty than to enjoy it with strange cheese snacks that I insisted we buy after the delicious Leipäjuusto cheese we ate in Helsinki.


    We hiked back across the shallows and continued through the original hiking path. We found large abandon buildings full of debris and great graffiti. We didn't complete a full circuit but we did make good friends with a caterpillar and enjoyed a great view by the water.


    On our way home, we stopped by to get a whole bunch of food and supplies at a grocery store in preparation of our long canoe trip we were planning to do. Who knew you could buy a tent, sleeping pad and sleeping bag for just $20! Thank goodness for camping sales!

    This is our last night with our CS host, who so kindly let us bum at his house for twice as long as we had originally asked. Thanks good friend!

    Things I learned:
    • You hike on wooden paths through bogs
    • Bogs aren't infested with bugs like how I thought
    Things to do next time: